Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Puerto Montt --> Puerto Natales

Well, hello again!

Today we pick back up in Puerto Montt. Puerto Montt is the city pretty much parallel latitudinally to Castro except that it's on the mainland. Like Castro, Puerto Montt is a very wet fishing town with the market to prove it.

Have a look. (Caution: dead fish pictures ahead)


I watched a guy slice and de-bone one of these salmon and all I could think was "I wanna do that!" Then I realized that I was excited about the idea of getting up at the crack of dawn to come to a stinky fish market and buy fresh fish from guys who eat lunch a 9:30am and that's when I realized that I think I need my own restaurant. You heard it here first. 







 And lastly...




I can't even tell you how glad you are that you cannot smell things through a computer right now. You are so glad, because this stuff WREAKS. What you see here is smoked, dried shellfish and seaweed. And the smell is so strong when I look at the pictures I can taste it. Ugh!


Puerto Montt is also home to a really great craft market where one can (and I did) buy various woven, leather, and wool products. Wool is huge in southern Chile and there are a lot of hand-made sweaters, socks, hats, and bags available in Puerto Montt. Alpaca fur clothing is also really popular. 


This is NOT an alpaca. This is a giant seal that was at the fish market searching for leftovers. 



Intermission

We interrupt this previously scheduled program to bring you a very important picture of Annie holding milcao (meel-cow). Because it's just that good. 

[what is in my hand is not apple juice in this case, but do not fret i am of age.] 


This is the curanto being prepared. 
*Note everything that you see in this photo that is not human is food.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Chiloe

And away we go!!

We begin our story in Chiloe, a beautiful little island in the mid-southern part of Chile with a history and food culture all its own.

The first thing you gotta know about Chiloe is how you get there. I got there by taking a bus. A 15-hour bus ride, folks! It was long, but not entirely disastrous. The three musketeers (Isela, Brian, and Michael) and I took a Cruz del Sur bus overnight to Puerto Montt, which is where the buses depart for Chiloe.

Now you may be thinking to yourself "Wait just a hot minute there Miss Anna Lee (you may call me your highness)! I thought you said Chiloe was an island?" (By the way if you're not thinking this you should really work on reading more carefully because detailed reading skills are very important and clearly yours are underdeveloped...but I digress)


To this I would reply "Why yes it is! But that didn't stop us from driving to it."

What I am taking forever to say here is that when you give a mouse a cookie... Just kidding.

To arrive in Chiloe they drive the bus straight onto a boat and navigate the whole system across the water to the island where they lower a ramp and the bus just drives right off. It's crazy and quite efficient.

So at around 7:45am the bus I had been peacefully sleeping in just drove right  onto a dock and onto the back of a boat with me in it!

Here are the pictures.

early morning at the dock


Titanic: Pacific Edition

See? BUS on a BOAT!


Chiloe coming into view




Even though Chiloe is a small island it has various different cities. Ancud and Quellón are among the more popular ones to visit, but we stayed in Castro. It almost reminded of home. 

their Castro

my Castro 
:)

Castro is the capital of Chiloe, and we were lucky enough to arrive during the last day of a festival happening in the Parque Municipal. We immediately set our stuff down to go see what we could find out about Chiloean (I may have made this word up) culutre. 

What we found was food...

 food...

drinks...


(that's apple juiced that I watched get hand pressed.)and, oh yeah, more food!





This last picture is of the most famous dish in Chiloe called curanto. Curanto is the term used for when a variety of things (potatoes, mussels, sausage, clams, abalone, and pork ribs, among other things) are cooked by burying them in earth with hot stones. Everything is carefully layered in then the whole thing is wrapped in these humongous leaves and left alone for about 2-3 hours. It takes about 6-8 people to pull off a big one like they had at the festival. We very much enjoyed the fruits of their hard labor.

In other news, Chiloe is turned out to be home to my favorite Chilean dish thus far. It's called milcao and it's pure magic. Let me break it down for you: It's salty pulled pork (á la carnitas only less crispy) inside a fried potato dough pocket. Picture a delicious jewish latke (if only I had the recipe for such a thing, [sigh] #dr.larryfeld) enveloping a tender salty spiced pork filling so that it looks like a round empanada. Is your mouth watering yet? My eyes rolled so far back in my head on account of the deliciousness that I was unable to snap a good picture of mine before I devoured it. 

Luckily I stole this one off the internet to give you some idea.

swoon.

The other thing y'all should know about Chiloe is that it is very wet. The island gets some form of rain 300 days out of the year. Consequently there is very lush vegetation and a lot of it. We went to visit the Parque Nacional Chiloé to see all the different types of green Chiloé had to offer. 















In order to enhance the appearance of anything always, always, always employ your sorority squat.

We finished our visit to the park at the beach, complete with sand dunes and a side-serving of (live) cattle (not shown).


[no caption]


Tomorrow I'll show you my brief stop in Puerto Montt on the way to Puerta Natales, home of the Torres del Paine National Park. ¡Nos vemos!

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Shout Outs and a Teaser Trailer

Holy Smokes do I have things to tell you all!

I just got back from 10 days of traveling in southern Chile and I can safely say that the more I see of it, the more I like it. It's already 2:00 am here so I'm not going to go into the details of the voyage right this instant, but here are some teaser photos of what's on the docket for us to discuss:

In CHILOE 
(pronounced cheel-o-ay)






             




PARQUE NACIONAL TORRES DEL PAINE
(Paine is pronounced pine-nay)









PUNTA ARENAS


Sometimes I hang out at the Strait of Magellan. It's not a big deal, it's just, like, spitting distance from Antarctica.(pronounced ant-arK-tica)
Don't worry about it. 




BUT BEFORE I GO...


 even though it is a day (or 15) late and a dollar (i have none left) short...





A HUGE thank you to the most on-top-of-it grandparents in the world, who managed to send me a highly appropriate valentine's day card, on valentine's day, in Chile. Grammy B and Grandpy Marv you continue to amaze me. You never miss an opportunity to make me feel loved. 

I hope you all are feeling loved regardless of what day it is.